1830 Capped Bust Half Dollar, Type 1, Lettered Edge, "Small 0"

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am6517
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1830 Capped Bust Half Dollar, Type 1, Lettered Edge, "Small 0"

#1 Unread post by am6517 »

Hello,

I just introduced myself in the introduction forum a little while ago. This is my first post (except for my introduction, so if I break any rules or etiquette, please let me know. As I explained in my introduction, throughout my childhood I received a number of 'collector coins' that never really interested me until now. This topic is related to a 1830 half dollar (pictures attached). I have a few questions I would appreciate some help with:

Base on the pictures, I am fairly certain this is a 1830 Capped Bust Half Dollar (Type 1, Lettered Edge, "Small 0"):

1. Can anyone help me determine the die variety? I have the PCGS Coinfacts app, and they listed a number of different die options. Some of the options include:
1830 50C Overton 101
1830 50C Overton 102
1830 50C Overton 103....etc...the sequence seems to go all the way up to Overton 118.

I have no idea how to determine which die variation is correct for this coin.

2. I am starting to get a better handle on how grading works. I know it is difficult to give an opinion on just pictures, but does anyone with experience have a 'ballpark' estimate? I'm completely fine with VG-VF range, for example.

3. Based on what can be had from looking at the pictures, is this a coin worth getting graded by PCGS, NGC, ICG. If so, what are the major differences between the three and are there any pros/cons to picking one over the other? This is a loaded question I know, but whatever input can be provided is appreciated.

4. Based on the pictures, would it be worth using E-Z-est to 'clean' the coin? I know this is a contentious topic...so to be clear, I mean dip the coin in e-Z-est for a few seconds, use a rubber glove to lightly move the coin around, then rinse with distilled water and let dry on paper towl.

Much thanks to any and all that reply.
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1830 Half Dollar 2.jpg
1830 Half Dollar.jpg

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Earle42
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Re: 1830 Capped Bust Half Dollar, Type 1, Lettered Edge, "Small 0"

#2 Unread post by Earle42 »

Sorry I cannot help with the Overton variety....but what I can help with is below:

Let me start at the bottom:
4. Based on the pictures, would it be worth using E-Z-est to 'clean' the coin? I know this is a contentious topic...so to be clear, I mean dip the coin in e-Z-est for a few seconds, use a rubber glove to lightly move the coin around, then rinse with distilled water and let dry on paper towl.
First...no paper towels! They can scratch coins. An old cotton T-shirt is great. The coin can be patted dry.

BTW ...from the pics yours looks nice anyway.

e-Z-est will remove a microscopic layer of metal from the coin (aka. "clean the coin"). And while PCGS etc. say it is impossible to tell when a coin has been dipped properly, I challenge you to take two common 1964 dimes with original luster (melt value anyway), properly (learn how to) dip one (rinse, pat dry with cotton cloth) and put them side by side. The difference is obvious in that both look great, but the dipped one will have a white luster instead of a minted-coin-silvery luster. The luster looks good, and people not seeing them side by side may not be able to tell. But someone having handled enough of both can normally tell.


"Cleaning" a coin means removing surface metal even on the microscopic level - it changes the coin's surface.

Conserving: removing only surface gunk:
Acetone: Health and beauty section Walmart - sold as 100% pure acetone fingernail polish remover.
1. Use PURE acetone first. Acetone cannot meddle with the metal of you medal (or coin)!. It is a polar solvent that will likely remove a lot of surface debris/ contaminant. I have been told that this is what PCGS uses as well when you PAY them to conserve your coin.

- no need to rinse - acetone will TOTALLY evaporate of of your coin (former chemistry teacher speaking).

2. Still got surface "stuff?" Try xylene (paint supplies). Rinse with distilled water. PAT dry with COTTON cloth.

3. If there are minute gobs (such as inside mint marks and letters), I use a microscope, and I also have found a porcupine needle is small enough tip to get gunk (not taken out by the acetone) out of micro places like the inside of mint marks and letters/numbers. The porcupine needles is soft enough it will not scratch the coin. Porcupine needles can be had on eBay cheap by the bag...or find a road kill!

A rose bush thorn is also said to work.

Still want to use e-Z-est after all of this (sometimes its unavoidable)?
Look for Daniel's video about how he cleans coins. And by all means EXPERIMENT on melt silver value coins. A few seconds in the jar may be too much, and don't hesitate getting the coin in the rinse. It takes experience to not over-dip.

3. Based on what can be had from looking at the pictures, is this a coin worth getting graded by PCGS, NGC, ICG. If so, what are the major differences between the three and are there any pros/cons to picking one over the other? This is a loaded question I know, but whatever input can be provided is appreciated.
Sorry I do not know your background better. But nowadays it is imperative collectors understand the grading companies are NOT what the general mindset (by people who don;t check into them) think they are. Please take the time to educate yourself with the following post. Its worth the time to read. Daniel even did a video on it after made the initial post.

"Thinking of Slabbing? Make sure you understand the Facts...or You Could Lose Money.😊

1. People seem to think grading companies will examine a coin to see if an error can be found, and then slab the coin with the type of error. But the companies ONLY GRADE coins and do NOT try to find errors.

2. The grading companies are not a way that the majority of people, even those with a great deal of experience who know what they are doing, are going to be able to use in order to make huge personal profits. Many people start using grading companies thinking they will find a way to finance their hobby, but they learn a hard lesson quickly.

3. Watch some of Daniel's videos where he gets pieces back form the grading companies. Note even people who live, eat, breath, and deal coins for a living (like Daniel) can accurately predict what grade the companies will give. And...the "fault" (not really a fault) is in a widespread mistaken perception people get from being exposed to all the slabs being sold nowadays.

Coin grading companies are a business out to make a profit - this is why they exist. They use a system where (allegedly, but in reality its normally two) three graders look at each coin and give an opinion. The company videos showing the process make you believe this is a relaxed paced process of studying each coin. In fact one PCGS video shows a number of guys sitting around a table discussing what they think a specific coin should be graded as (on youtube somewhere - sorry no link). Uh uh.

If you take a PCGS graded coin slabbed as MS64, break it out, and resubmit it to PCGS, you are never guaranteed the same grade again. The slabbed coin might come back MS62 (bad day for graders), 63, 64, 65, 66 (great day for you!). This is b/c the process is all subjective: No scientific/verifiable standards or methods are used. Personally having talked with former graders (granted - its been awhile), the process is very rushed since they told me graders are paid by how many coins they can get through in a day.

But..this is all hearsay without proof. So...
Grading the Coin Graders

Here is another good read from someone there at the start of the grading companies:
Hobby negative impacts from slabbing companies

Also link to and read (download if you want it) the pdf link in my signature. The verifiable data presented shows trusting people have spent thousands of dollars on many slabbed coins that are not what the companies claims/slabbed the coins to be.

You don't have to throw in the towel over these companies...but education about the reality of them will put you on the right pathway to dealing with them in a legit way without losing money in the process.

And…if you just like to collect slabbed coins for what they are, which makes losing/making money from slabs irrelevant, then of course enjoy them!"
😊


Ans one more thing. I think MrWeasel and MattHudson on here also have some techniques for conservation that work properly. I just don't remember them! So hopefully they will chime in.
Common grading company shortcomings & resulting co$tly mi$take$ to collectors (using Kennedy No FG halves):
https://tinyurl.com/y7rksxu8

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Re: 1830 Capped Bust Half Dollar, Type 1, Lettered Edge, "Small 0"

#3 Unread post by Triple C »

Hi...to assist with question 1: You will need to look at the second T in STATES and determine where it lines up with the I in PLURIBUS (your pics are too blurry when zoomed in). Then, use the link below to compare your T-I alignment with the variety images provided:
http://maibockaddict.com/1830-capped-bu ... page.shtml
Hope that helps!
Last edited by Triple C on Wed Sep 22, 2021 4:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: 1830 Capped Bust Half Dollar, Type 1, Lettered Edge, "Small 0"

#4 Unread post by am6517 »

Very helpful. Thanks!

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Re: 1830 Capped Bust Half Dollar, Type 1, Lettered Edge, "Small 0"

#5 Unread post by Paul »

The numerical Overton designation you are seeking, can only be assigned by "In Hand" inspection,… by an individual who has years of experience as an attributer.
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Re: 1830 Capped Bust Half Dollar, Type 1, Lettered Edge, "Small 0"

#6 Unread post by Matthudson »

What you've got there appears to be an XF coin to me - or higher! I would be petrified of any attempts you may indulge with the level of inexperience you preface your questions with. You could accidentally knock of a considerable chunk of the value of what seems like a coin that's potentially worth a couple hundred dollars!

Leave.
It.
Alone!!

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Re: 1830 Capped Bust Half Dollar, Type 1, Lettered Edge, "Small 0"

#7 Unread post by Matthudson »

On a side note, I'm curious. I grew up in the 70s. I never encountered a Whitman Snap-Tite for older 32.5 mm bust halves. Looks like they must have made them at some point. I chuckle when I see folders for coin series 1793- HA!

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Re: 1830 Capped Bust Half Dollar, Type 1, Lettered Edge, "Small 0"

#8 Unread post by SensibleSal66 »

I agree with Matthudson . I don't know why you would want to clean a piece of history. I think whatever the issue is can be solved with the Acetone dip with the distilled water and that's it . The only coins that I ever messed with is one's that I "dug" while metal detecting and Copper only with sometimes great luck and sometimes thing went horribly wrong .
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Re: 1830 Capped Bust Half Dollar, Type 1, Lettered Edge, "Small 0"

#9 Unread post by am6517 »

Matthudson wrote: Wed Sep 22, 2021 11:55 pm What you've got there appears to be an XF coin to me - or higher! I would be petrified of any attempts you may indulge with the level of inexperience you preface your questions with. You could accidentally knock of a considerable chunk of the value of what seems like a coin that's potentially worth a couple hundred dollars!

Leave.
It.
Alone!!
Much appreciated. I have decided to leave it alone. Thanks for the answer!

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Re: 1830 Capped Bust Half Dollar, Type 1, Lettered Edge, "Small 0"

#10 Unread post by am6517 »

SensibleSal66 wrote: Thu Sep 23, 2021 3:26 am I agree with Matthudson . I don't know why you would want to clean a piece of history. I think whatever the issue is can be solved with the Acetone dip with the distilled water and that's it . The only coins that I ever messed with is one's that I "dug" while metal detecting and Copper only with sometimes great luck and sometimes thing went horribly wrong .
Much appreciated. I will not be cleaning the coin. Thanks for the response, it means a lot.

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Re: 1830 Capped Bust Half Dollar, Type 1, Lettered Edge, "Small 0"

#11 Unread post by am6517 »

Triple C wrote: Wed Sep 22, 2021 4:24 pm Hi...to assist with question 1: You will need to look at the second T in STATES and determine where it lines up with the I in PLURIBUS (your pics are too blurry when zoomed in). Then, use the link below to compare your T-I alignment with the variety images provided:
http://maibockaddict.com/1830-capped-bu ... page.shtml
Hope that helps!
Very helpful! Much appreciated.

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Re: 1830 Capped Bust Half Dollar, Type 1, Lettered Edge, "Small 0"

#12 Unread post by am6517 »

Paul wrote: Wed Sep 22, 2021 5:38 pm The numerical Overton designation you are seeking, can only be assigned by "In Hand" inspection,… by an individual who has years of experience as an attributer.
Thank you. I appreciate the response and will keep that in mind.

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Re: 1830 Capped Bust Half Dollar, Type 1, Lettered Edge, "Small 0"

#13 Unread post by am6517 »

Earle42 wrote: Wed Sep 22, 2021 4:08 pm Sorry I cannot help with the Overton variety....but what I can help with is below:

Thanks so much! This is just a ton of useful information. I will definitely be reading up on your post. Much appreciated.

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