As I always try to stay as cost neutral in collecting as possible (can't afford to just outright buy these things at their value) I have to sadly "flip" two out of three of them to cover the cost of keeping one. All three are some what close in value but the value isn't my biggest concern. I'm already leaning towards one but I'm curious as to which everyone else would pick/opinions out of the lot of three.
If you only get to keep one, which one would you choose?
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If you only get to keep one, which one would you choose?
Presented are 3 coins I have gotten over the last few months. A PCGS MS 62 1857 Flying Eagle (bought raw then certified), a NGC MS 66BN 1864 bronze (bought as is as I noted the non attributed doubling in the date "4", possible S2), and a PCGS AU58 1869 (bought as is).
As I always try to stay as cost neutral in collecting as possible (can't afford to just outright buy these things at their value) I have to sadly "flip" two out of three of them to cover the cost of keeping one. All three are some what close in value but the value isn't my biggest concern. I'm already leaning towards one but I'm curious as to which everyone else would pick/opinions out of the lot of three.
As I always try to stay as cost neutral in collecting as possible (can't afford to just outright buy these things at their value) I have to sadly "flip" two out of three of them to cover the cost of keeping one. All three are some what close in value but the value isn't my biggest concern. I'm already leaning towards one but I'm curious as to which everyone else would pick/opinions out of the lot of three.
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Scubaredneck
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Re: If you only get to keep one, which one would you choose?
I love the coins of Longacre and the Flying Eagle is my favorite! As far as the DD injun, I believe you have to request and pay extra for NGC to attribute an error coin.
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Daniel
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Re: If you only get to keep one, which one would you choose?
Very nice coin and method of keeping "one". Do you look for misplaced dates and repunched dates?
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Paul
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Re: If you only get to keep one, which one would you choose?
if i were you.....
i would send paul the '57 FEC for "safe keeping"1, send mark the clashed / re-punched '64 IHC, & sell the '69 IHC to cover your loss....
but that's just me :l
1. because you know he will never sell it!
i would send paul the '57 FEC for "safe keeping"1, send mark the clashed / re-punched '64 IHC, & sell the '69 IHC to cover your loss....
but that's just me :l
1. because you know he will never sell it!
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Paul
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Re: If you only get to keep one, which one would you choose?
anyhoo...
i took a "good hugeeyes see" at the '64...
d, that coin is incredible.....with the WAY OUT OF POSITION 4....
:trophy: :trophy: :trophy: :trophy: :trophy:
i could not even price that thing....
i took a "good hugeeyes see" at the '64...
d, that coin is incredible.....with the WAY OUT OF POSITION 4....
:trophy: :trophy: :trophy: :trophy: :trophy:
i could not even price that thing....
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Daniel
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mhonzell
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Re: If you only get to keep one, which one would you choose?
I tend to like IHCs better than FE and the 1864 has some attributes I really like:
Iridescent toning is awesome!
Light die clash on reverse can be seen near middle inside edge of right oak leaf (head feathers). On obverse can see right oak leaf in feathers 5-9 and hairline.
Unusual die line running behind eye down to back of nose.
A bit fuzzy on the close-up, but is that doubling in LIBERTY? Especially the RTY.
I'd keep this one, but that's me...
I suspect you'll keep the FE lol:
Iridescent toning is awesome!
Light die clash on reverse can be seen near middle inside edge of right oak leaf (head feathers). On obverse can see right oak leaf in feathers 5-9 and hairline.
Unusual die line running behind eye down to back of nose.
A bit fuzzy on the close-up, but is that doubling in LIBERTY? Especially the RTY.
I'd keep this one, but that's me...
I suspect you'll keep the FE lol:
Re: If you only get to keep one, which one would you choose?
As of right now I actually think I'm keeping the 1864. The repunch is quite bold, I love the iridescent color, and at it's grade it probably one of the finest out there. beyond value I appreciate how rare it is.
There is a solid population of higher grade FEC's out there and they seem a bit more easy to come by, not necessarily price wise though. The 1869 honestly never had a chance for being kept. Caught it at a bargain price with the sole purpose of turning it over to pay for what was to be the FEC until I found the '64 a few weeks ago. I had made a post a few weeks ago about NGC/PCGS opinions and how they cross over from one to the other. It was actually about the '64 but I didn't have it in hand yet so I couldn't post pictures. I'm still considering sending it for attribution and cross over as I find the white holder NGC uses extremely "consuming" when trying to view the coin. Was terrible for trying to take pics which is why the '64's are the worst. As these coins are more about a hobby for me that will be a legacy for my sons, I'm big in making sure they are properly labeled so that when my time comes hopefully long from now, even if they haven't inherited my love of coins, they at least understand what they're looking at and hopefully won't be swindled out of something good.
Typically I use the varieties I find to generate the ability to keep the better IHC's I get and for certification fees. I do occasionally keep a few varieties when they're in better condition (XF-AU) but not necessary worth the fees for mailing out and certification.
Thoughts on if anyone thinks the '64 will cross over from NGC to PCGS? I honestly just like their holders better and everything I have now is PCGS already (uniformity). As for value I'm totally clueless. I got it for just under "MS66BN non attributed book value. I know it has to have some sort of premium over the normal but I just think its a beautiful variety coin in amazing condition.
And about the FEC. I have been wondering this for a while. If you look at the forward (left) wing you'll notice what looks like a die gouge/break or something starting bold up front (at it's left) but thinning out as it heads to the back of the wing. I would have thought it just a die gouge but as it thins and heads back it actually appears to "weave" into the feathers only showing up in the low spots while "hiding" behind the high points. Any thoughts on this? Due to its design i was thinking more variety that may have started on the die they just unique error from a planchet, or am I way off?
There is a solid population of higher grade FEC's out there and they seem a bit more easy to come by, not necessarily price wise though. The 1869 honestly never had a chance for being kept. Caught it at a bargain price with the sole purpose of turning it over to pay for what was to be the FEC until I found the '64 a few weeks ago. I had made a post a few weeks ago about NGC/PCGS opinions and how they cross over from one to the other. It was actually about the '64 but I didn't have it in hand yet so I couldn't post pictures. I'm still considering sending it for attribution and cross over as I find the white holder NGC uses extremely "consuming" when trying to view the coin. Was terrible for trying to take pics which is why the '64's are the worst. As these coins are more about a hobby for me that will be a legacy for my sons, I'm big in making sure they are properly labeled so that when my time comes hopefully long from now, even if they haven't inherited my love of coins, they at least understand what they're looking at and hopefully won't be swindled out of something good.
Typically I use the varieties I find to generate the ability to keep the better IHC's I get and for certification fees. I do occasionally keep a few varieties when they're in better condition (XF-AU) but not necessary worth the fees for mailing out and certification.
Thoughts on if anyone thinks the '64 will cross over from NGC to PCGS? I honestly just like their holders better and everything I have now is PCGS already (uniformity). As for value I'm totally clueless. I got it for just under "MS66BN non attributed book value. I know it has to have some sort of premium over the normal but I just think its a beautiful variety coin in amazing condition.
And about the FEC. I have been wondering this for a while. If you look at the forward (left) wing you'll notice what looks like a die gouge/break or something starting bold up front (at it's left) but thinning out as it heads to the back of the wing. I would have thought it just a die gouge but as it thins and heads back it actually appears to "weave" into the feathers only showing up in the low spots while "hiding" behind the high points. Any thoughts on this? Due to its design i was thinking more variety that may have started on the die they just unique error from a planchet, or am I way off?
Re: If you only get to keep one, which one would you choose?
Quality,Quality,Quality! To me this is simple. As much as I love the Eagle,I would keep the 64 Indian. If you add the added value to an already high grade coin it will be very much more than you paid! I suspect the Eagle was a bargain raw. You will cover costs with it.$$$ As for sending a coin to PCGS in an NGC holder, No, don't!! They will try to make a grading point at your expense. A 66 will become a 65 like magic. These companies have egos that will rarely allow crossovers. You could take a chance and break the coin out. I would not. There is nothing wrong with an NGC MS 66 that you get attributed. Either way, all three coins are super, but the FE and the 64 are superior pieces. I also suspect you will keep the EAGLE. Dan
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mhonzell
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Re: If you only get to keep one, which one would you choose?
Lastly, a label is just that... a piece of paper.
If you want to hand it down with the proper labeling, then put it on the holder yourself.
(A very important, cost saving technique provided to me by Paul.)
I've turned in coins for crossover and had them come back with a new sticky paper label number attached to the back of the old holder confirming the variety, but denying the grade the original holder indicates. Does that help, or hurt? I can look up the number and see the confirmed variety, but it is considered "Not Graded" by the other TPG.) That NGC MS-66 is worth more than a PCGS MS-65, in value. Keep it there.
Your kids/grandkids will be able to identify it with a hand made label.
If you don't feel comfortable making the call, send it to Paul for attribution. You won't get a better attribution than that.
If you want to hand it down with the proper labeling, then put it on the holder yourself.
(A very important, cost saving technique provided to me by Paul.)
I've turned in coins for crossover and had them come back with a new sticky paper label number attached to the back of the old holder confirming the variety, but denying the grade the original holder indicates. Does that help, or hurt? I can look up the number and see the confirmed variety, but it is considered "Not Graded" by the other TPG.) That NGC MS-66 is worth more than a PCGS MS-65, in value. Keep it there.
Your kids/grandkids will be able to identify it with a hand made label.
If you don't feel comfortable making the call, send it to Paul for attribution. You won't get a better attribution than that.
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Daniel
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Re: If you only get to keep one, which one would you choose?
On the 64' I am seeing strange die marks, is it also a clashed die with tool marks from removing most of the clash?
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