1907

Roman numerals, though rarely used today for anything other than copyright dates were in very common use amongst our ancestors as little as 100 years ago to express the dates on coinage. They convey a sense of classicism and stateliness, and can be a very useful acquisition in the pursuit of numismatic knowledge, especially if your collecting interest is medals or pre-20th century European coinage.

First of all, here is a chart of Roman numerals and their Arabic numeral equivalents:

I – 1

V – 5

X – 10

L – 50

C – 100

D – 500

M – 1,000

Now I will discuss how to apply these to practical use.

American Roman numerals:

If you are using a number such as 50, you simply use the numeral for that number.

In most cases, the number will not be a round number like 50. Whenever a larger numeral is front of a smaller numeral, the two numerals are added together.

EXAMPLE:

CXXVI – 126

If a smaller numeral is in front of a larger numeral, that smaller numeral is subtracted from the larger numeral.

EXAMPLE:

XC – 90

Here’s a list of the more advanced numerals:

IV – 4

IX – 9

XL – 40

XC – 90

CD – 400

CM – 900

With this knowledge, you can translate any coin dated in Roman numerals to Arabic numerals. Here are a few examples:

MCMLXIV – 1964

MDCCCXCIX – 1899

MDCCLXXVI – 1776

European Roman numerals:

The only major difference between European and American Roman numerals is that Europeans sometimes do not use the same Roman numerals for numbers beginning in 4. Instead of subtracting a numeral for a number beginning in 1 from one beginning in 4, some Europeans add four numbers beginning in 1 (such as XXXX instead of XL).

NOTE: As Roman numerals are nearly always used for dates, higher numbers are rarely used. To express a number higher than 1,000 (M), a horizontal line is placed above a numeral, indicating that numeral is 1,000 times it’s normal value (for instance, if a V has a horizontal line over it, it translates to 5,000 instead of 5).

The Maundy ceremony is based on Jesus Christs’ actions at the Last Supper, in which he washed the feet of the disciples (an ancient hospitality tradition) and instructed them to “love one another. As I have loved you, so you must love one another.” (John 13:34). This is the basis for all Maundy ceremonies, which take place on the the Thursday before Easter.

Maundy ceremonies were first celebrated by the British monarch in 1210 A.D., when King John handed out clothing, utensils and other items to poor families. The very early Maundy ceremonies included the washing of the feet, symbolic of Christ washing the feet of the disciples. During this ceremony high ranking clergymen or monarchs would wash the feet of lower ranking clergymen or the poor. The washing of the feet, though now rarely practiced, was once a major ceremony conducted by nearly every European monarch, some as late the 20th century.

Maundy sets are sets of four coins consisting of penny, twopence, threepence and fourpence (groat) pieces. The sets are traditionally given out by the reigning monarch of Great Britain to poor families each year. The number of sets handed out corresponds to the monarchs age. For instance, if Queen Elizabeth II were 70 on Maundy day, then 70 sets would be handed out to 70 families. The first traditional Maundy set was minted in 1660, during the reign of Charles II. Since then, it has been a yearly tradition among the reigning British monarchs. Starting in 1822 (during the reign of George IV), the four denominations were made special for use in Maundy sets. Prior to that date, the circulating coinage had been used.

Until 1920, the silver purity was .925 fine (sterling). After 1920, the purity was reduced to .500 fine, until 1947, when it was once again changed, this time back to .925 fine. It may seem odd that the silver purity was reduced and then increased, but there is a very good reason for such actions to be taken. In 1920, the silver content of all British coins was reduced .925, or 92.5% silver to .500, or 50% silver. When the circulating coins were changed, so too were Maundy coins. Beginning in 1947, silver was removed from British coins entirely to assist in paying off the massive war debt that England had racked up following World War II. As it was thought improper to strike Maundy coins in copper-nickel, the composition was reverted back to the original 92.5% silver.

No Maundy sets are cheap, but many are very affordable. Prior to 1909, they could simply be purchased from banks for a small fee. In 1909, King Edward VII ordered that Maundy sets only be issued to the poor families involved in the ceremonies, so sets are much less common after that date. Click here to see more pictures of Maundy Coin Sets

Determining the date or denomination of an Arabic coins can be challenge if they are not written in both Eastern and Western Arabic (those used in western nations) numerals. Once you have become familiarized with the ten basic numerals, however, it becomes much more simple. Since Eastern Arabic numbers are used in the same way as Western numbers (both systems have the same roots), all you have to do to figure them out is compare each number in the date or denomination to this chart:

Here are some examples:

١٣١٩ – 1319

١٩٦٤ – 1964

٢٠٠٩ – 2009

Now that you can determine what the numbers on your Arabic coins mean, the next step is determining the date. Most countries with Islam as the main religion use the Muslim, or Hejira calendar. The Muslim calendar is based on the lunar year (which means it’s 11 days shorter than the Christian calendar). The Gregorian calendar (which is used in most western nations) is based on the year in which Christ was born, but the Hejira calendar begins in the year that Muhammad fled Mecca, which took place in the Christian year 622. If a date is ever followed by the letters ‘AH’, the date written is dated with Hejira dates. The letters ‘AD’ refer to the Christian date, of course. Because of the discrepancy in the calendars, dating Muslim coins can be very difficult for those in western nations. The entire process becomes a lot easier with one very simple equation.

To figure out how the date on your Islamic coin translates to Christian years, simply multiply the Islamic date by 0.97, then add 622. This gives you a rough equivalent.

Here is an example:

1421 (Muslim year) x 0.97 + 622 = 2000 (Christian year)

Japanese coins can be dated either in Japanese numerals or Arabic numerals. If they’re dated with Arabic numerals, the Christian date is generally used, so the date doesn’t need to be deciphered. In most cases, however, Japanese coins use the nengo dating system, which I will describe and explain in this short guide.

Nengo dating:

Nengo dating is the practice of displaying the name of the current emperor and year of that emperor’s reign. For instance, if your coin shows the Japanese characters for Shōwa and 35, your coin was minted in the 35th year of the reign of emperor Shōwa (Hirohito), which would date your coin to 1960.

Japanese numerals (fig. 1, below):

In order to date coins that use the nengo dating system, you must first be able to translate the numbers. Here’s how:

If there is only one number, simply translate that number.

EXAMPLE:

五 – 5

If a small number from Chart A is front a larger number from Chart B, you multiply the smaller number by the larger number.

EXAMPLE:

五十 – 50 (五 is the numeral for 5 and 十 is the numeral for 10)

If there is yet another number following this, the third number is added.

EXAMPLE:

五十三 – 53

Prior to 1948, Japanese numerals were written in the traditional right to left manner on coins. In order to determine if they use that method or the Western method (left to right), simply look for the Japanese symbol nen, meaning year (fig. 3). Nen always follows the date, so by using that you can determine which way the date is written.

NOTE: For the first year of the reign of an emperor, the Japanese character gan is used in place of the numeral for 1.

The second step to dating your Japanese coins is to determine which emperor the coin was minted under. To do this, I have provided a chart (fig. 2) of each emperor from the beginning of the 19th century to the present day. The characters for the name of the emperor’s reign can appear in either orientation as shown in the chart.

The easiest way to determine what date your coin is in Gregorian years, simply take the first year of the emperor’s reign, subtract 1 year and add the number on the coin.

EXAMPLE:

If the date is Shōwa 35, start with the first year of Hirohito’s reign (1926), subtract 1 and add 35. You will end up with the Christian year of 1960.

Collecting German Thalers can be very fun and interesting. The history behind the coins are the most interesting aspect of collecting them. One thing I should point out, is the art work on some of the these large Thalers, are just amazing. You can collect ones with religious themes on them, or ones that have city views. If your into collecting by coat of arms, than you will not be disappointed. One area I find very interesting and possibly the most historical, are the commemorative issues. Within the commemorative issues, you can collect the Thalers that commemorate the deaths of Kings, Dukes, Queens and the births of Royal family children and grandchildren. To make a Thaler collection specialized, you should decide what Thalers you want to collect. As stated earlier within this article, there are many types to collect. A lessen I learnt the hard way, is not to let yourself get carried away. Do not think you can collect one Thaler from every German State, Duchy, Bishopric or Free Cities. It is almost impossible to do. You would have to be a multi-millionaire to do this.

Ok, so now lets look at how to put together a very nice collection of Thalers. First off, I would recommend getting the Davenport books on German Thalers. These books are the most comprehensive works on German Thalers. After doing some intensive studying, you want to find out which types of Thalers you want to collect. The reason I state to do some research, is do to the fact that there are many interesting types. If you find out that you may be interested in collecting varieties within a series. Than you must also understand that some of the varieties can be very expensive. Without a good book that covers these varieties, you can become lost very fast. Not only lost on which Thalers are rare, but also which ones are most sought after. A good book will also help you with knowing how many minor and major die changes there are within a series. So, as you can see, the old saying of buy the book before the coin does hold true. Next, would be to find out which Thalers you find are the most interesting. As stated earlier within this article, there are many States, Duchies, Bishoprics and Free Cities within the Holy Roman Empire to pick from. The Free Cities are very interesting with City Views on the reverse of the coin. City View Thalers are very popular, and most are rare to find in high grade mint state. So find out which category of Thalers you want to study up on. As you can see there are many types to collect. One series I’ve forgotten to mention, is the metallic issues. These Thalers are medals, but were given legal tender. These issues have some of the nicest designs on them.

The most important part in assembling a collection, is to have some type of order within it. If you plan on collecting by State, than look at collecting one or two States. This way your collection will be more specialized, and not one that looks just thrown together. Look at collecting Thalers from both the 17th and 18th centuries. Some of the Rulers did rule during both centuries. Doing it this way, you can include the commemorative Thalers of the Ruler. Such as a 25th year of Reign, or a Thaler commemorating the Rulers age and one that commemorates his death. You can also collect Thalers that show the Ruler on a horse, holding his sword or scepter. Or, you can collect a Ruler dressed in his armor. As you can see there are many ways to assemble a nice interesting Thaler collection. This is were a good specialized book comes as a must have.

The date was March 5th, 1930. Martin Coles Harman, self proclaimed king of Lundy Island, is charged with violating section 5 of the British Coinage Act of 1870. Harman lost that case, but that is not the end of the story of Lundy or it’s popular (if not official) coinage series.

The history of Lundy Island begins in Neolithic times, when the first settlers reached Lundy. Years later, 5th-6th century inhabitants leave inscribed stones, assuring Lundy’s place in history. For the next 1500 years, Lundy Island would be controlled by the Knights Templar, several British kings, William de Marisco, numerous pirates and privateers, wealthy British subjects and officials, businessmen, millionaires and a conservation group.

The modern history of Lundy begins in 1748, when member of parliament Thomas Benson leased the island from Lord Gower at a rate of £60 per year. Benson’s interest in Lundy was proven to be nefarious when he used the island to hide huge shipments of tobacco to avoid customs payments, which was considered smuggling. Perhaps the worst offense, however, was committed when Benson secured a contract to transport convicts to Virginia, but instead of embarking on a long and expensive sea voyage, he took the prisoners to Lundy, where they essentially became his slaves. To make matters worse, Benson kept the remaining funds granted to him by the contract, despite transporting the convicts just a few miles.

In 1752, Benson devised his most ambitious crime against the Crown. In deep trouble from the British authorities for continually smuggling tobacco into Lundy without paying customs taxes, Benson had his men purposely set a brigantine from his fleet on fire to claim the insurance money. Rather than be convicted of insurance fraud, he allowed his captain -an honorable man by the name of John Lancey- to take the fall for the crime. Given the choice to secure his freedom by pointing to Benson as the mastermind behind the scheme or face the judge, Lancey opted not to implicate his former employer. He was hanged on June 7th, 1754 at age 27.

Still in trouble with England, Benson fled to Portugal, where he remained (except for a brief period in which he fled to Spain when his extradition was called for) until his death in 1772 at age 64.

Yet another scofflaw to own Lundy was William Hudson Heaven, who purchased the island in 1834 as a hunting retreat. Like so many others have done, Heaven proclaimed Lundy a free island. The family’s finances soon deteriorated, however, and by the time Heaven’s grand-nephew had inherited the island (Heaven left it to his son, who in turn left it to his nephew), the Heaven family’s economic condition had further soured. Lundy was sold to Augustus Langham Christie in 1917. Christie owned the island until 1925, when it was sold for £16,000 to a wealthy financier named Martin Coles Harman.

The time that the Harman family owned Lundy is most interesting period to numismatists (and philatelists, as stamps were also issued by Harman beginning in 1929), as this was the only time that coins were actually minted exclusively for use on the island. The coins, denominated in puffins and half-puffins were equivalent in value to the British Pennies and half-Pennies respectively, were issued in 1929. Both coins featured Harman’s profile on the obverse, along with the words, “MARTIN · COLES · HARMAN” and the date. The one puffin pieces depict a full-body view of a puffin standing on a rock along with the denomination, while the half-puffin features a partial view of the puffin from the chest up along with the denomination. The depiction of a whole puffin on the one puffin coin and half of a puffin on the half-puffin coin is probably not an accident but a deliberate play on words. Both pieces also feature a lettered edge with the words, “LUNDY LIGHTS AND LEADS”. Both the one and half-puffin were minted in bronze and were struck in Birmingham, England by the Heaton’s Mint. Each denomination has a mintage of 50,000.

A second series of coins was issued to celebrate the fortieth anniversary of Harman family ownership of Lundy Island in 1965. This time they weren’t meant as a medium of exchange. These pieces were struck for collectors, Lundy inhabitants and as presentation sets. They bear the same design and denominations as the 1929 issues, but were struck in bronze, nickel-brass and gold. They boast a total of 3,000 each for the base metal pieces, and 50 each for the gold pieces.

Pattern pieces also exist. They can be distinguished from the regular 1929 issues by a thicker flan and by the fact that they have no edge lettering.

After Martin Cole Harman’s death in 1954, his son, Albion P. Harman, inherited the island. Lundy Island was put up for sale shortly after Albion’s death in 1968. It was then purchased for £150,000 by a British millionaire named Jack Hayward, who gave it to the National Trust in 1969. The National Trust then leased it to the Landmark Trust. Lundy is now a popular tourist spot. Popular activities include nature walks and rock climbing. Cottages are rented by the Landmark Trust company.

The coins of Lundy Island, though few, make a very interesting base metal type set at a pretty affordable price. All but the gold and pattern issues are valued at under $20 each (that is, in MS or AU for the 1929 issues, and proof for the 1965 issues), which means a set of base metal issues can be obtained for about $100 (there are 6 issues, and some are valued at anywhere from $10-$15.) The Lundy Island coins are unmatched in design among the coinage of unrecognized countries/states, and they are an extremely interesting (but short-lived) series when you take into consideration the history of Lundy Island, it’s most eccentric resident, Martin Coles Harman, and it’s most famous inhabitant, the puffin.

By RHM22 Member CHF #169

October 19, 2009

Varieties by German State 1900-1918 This list covers 2, 3 and 5 Mark coins

Baden – Mint Mark: G 1902 to 1907 5Mark coin I’ve not seen enough of these to know what the varieties are

Bavaria – Mint Mark: D 2Mark 1901 to 1908 and then 1912 to 1913. The variety is the open and closed hair curl on the top of Otto’s head. It is a very noticeable curl. The 3Mark coin 1908 to 1918 has the same variety as the 2Mark coin. The 5Mark coin 1901 to 1904 and then 1906 to 1908. Minted again in 1913. The same variety as the 2Mark and 3Mark coins.

Burnswick-Wolfenbuttel – Mint Mark: A 3Mark 1915. Some of the coins have U LUNEB added to the obverse. The coins without the U LUNEB added are the most sought after, with only 1,700 being minted. The 5Mark coin has the same variety as the 3Mark coin, with only 1,400 being minted without the U LUNEB added.

Wurttemberg – Mint Mark: F 3Mark commemorative (25th Wedding Anniversary) 1911. The letter H on the obverse in the name Charlotte, is known to have a Low Bar H and a High Bar H. The High Bar H is the most sought after, with a mintage of 7,000. Its is very easy to tell the difference between a LOW BAR H and the High Bar H. If the H looks normal with the cross bar in the middle,..than it is a Low Bar. If the cross bar looks to be higher up and not in the middle, than it is a High Bar.

These are the only varieties that I know of during the time period covering 1900 to 1918.