First, let me disclose that in no way, shape, or form am I accusing or suggesting that any certain person or seller is attempting to cheat, fool, scam, beguile, or rip you off with these “unsearched” rolls for sale. This guide I wrote should be considered as ‘my opinion only’ and used for educational purposes only. However, there’s a few sellers that who do use this as a trick to make more profit.

The first set of pictures show the tools used: A count tray, end rollers, and of course the empty ‘preformed’ coin tubes. Cost equals about $18.00 to get started.
Looking closely at picture #6, you can see inside the recessed rolling ring of the square plastic end crimper. Can you see the small raised bar or nub? This is the part of the ‘roller’ that curls the paper into its doughnut shape as you gently push in and twist the tool. Like everything else in life, the more you do it, the better you get and I have seen some “expert” work by some of these sellers.


Looking at the picture labeled ‘M’, you will see: ‘factory’ creasing (green arrows), a tight ‘paper split’ (blue lines), & the highest points that are ‘ROUNDED’. This is a factory, as they call it, end crimp. Expert roll makers are not even able to get this ‘true roundness’, due to the bar or nub on the roller we saw in the close up discussed earlier. They will look close, but if you inspect the pictures closely, the “non-factory” rolls will show some very faint ‘flatness’ to this top area and it’s not the same as storage “smashed”.

Have I ever purchased a ‘stacked’ roll before because the ‘end coin’ was a supposed ‘seller unaware’ rare variety. What’s the most I have ever seen a stacked roll sell for? Just over $1700.00 What was it? A roll advertised as a back-2-back BU/MS/RD 1909 VDB Lincoln Cent Roll. What did I see? 2 XF+ low contact, completely cleaned & dipped coins. (Was this a heavy shill bid auction? The second place bidder had a 96% bid ratio for that seller over the past 30 days, a 64 feedback, with 36 bids alone on this 1 item.)

Was there a “possible ‘S’ mintmark” in the description? Of course. Also beware, there is a lot of word-play going on, for instance, “double die”, “doubling”, “die double”, “with doubling”. The correct term is “Doubled Die” for those varieties so read the descriptions, they are not ‘lying’, as far as those “coin strikes” go, (letting you, not yet educated enough in that area, think that they are rare) but these are ‘striking anomalies’, but back to rolls.

If I have my pre-teen children at home making just 100 of these rolls a week to sell, and I close up the end, it is “un-searched” by me, right? However the big pile of coins used to make these rolls was searched by someone. So purchasing OBW’s (original bank wrapped) rolls is a bit of an art form and takes skill.

Someone at Heritage, whom I am not sure, figured the odds of a roll with BU/MSRD back to back 1909 S VDB’s somewhere around 1:170,000,000. Now this is common sense talking here. I don’t care who you are, if there is a roll with a high value or key date end coin showing, you’re not going to auction it for .99¢ no reserve!

You must also remember when looking at crimped and possibly unsearched rolls that you can see any possible damage to the rim nor can you see the other side. You just can’t be certain if the coin has been cleaned or damaged when it’s inside a wrapper, and it becomes a crap shoot when you buy these, hoping you’re getting something good for your money.

So, take a few minutes to look at the images posted. You should see some distinguishing characteristics that should tip you off on if the roll is not an old bank wrapped roll.